Fadistos howl into the night in Coimbra

Picture: Regiao Turismo

Fado is sung by black-clad men and women with a severe case of the blues.

Dramatic, intense, slow and mournful, fado, which means "fate", has been wafting from the dark tavernas of Lisbon and Coimbra for more than 150 years. T

hese days, the bars and restaurants of both cities hold regular performances; here you can witness a tortured-looking fadista draped in a black shawl channel the heart-wrenching pain of some poor sod who lost their lover to the raging sea.

Fado is a musical expression of the uniquely Portuguese trait of saudade - a deep nostalgia, an inexplicable yearning and a longing for a glorious past. Traditionally it was the music of the working class, with some theories being that it has Moorish roots or was brought to Portugal by sailors who had journeyed through Africa and Brazil.

The fado singer is usually accompanied by Portuguese guitar (shaped like a mandolin, with up to 12 strings).

Portugal's most-loved fado singer was Amalia Rodrigues - her music is on sale everywhere. Her successor is Mariza, a sassy blonde diva who is causing a stir on the international scene.