Christchurch embraces its English roots with punting on the Avon River.

If you're planning on hitting New Zealand's spectacular South Island, you'll most likely pass through its major city.

Centred around Cathderal Square and sprawled around the winding Avon River, Christchurch is New Zealand's most "English" city.

No city in New Zealand divides visitors' opinions like Christchurch; its detractors argue that it has all the energy of a retirement village, is flat, boring, conservative, uppity, monocultural and populated with inadequately-endowed boy racers.

Advocates point to the city's laid-back charm, squeaky-clean boulevards, multi-ethnic restaurants, manicured gardens, buzzing Arts Centre, fine surf beaches and great hillwalking as proof that Christchurch is more than just a sleep-and-run destination.

Just 20 minutes drive from the city centre, the hilly port suburb of Lyttelton provides a refreshingly quirky counterpoint to Christchurch's staidness, with bohemian bars, eclectic eateries, a thriving arts scene, a much-loved Saturday farmers' market and cute wooden houses clustered on its hillside.

From Lyttelton, a regular ferry plies the harbour to the small artistic community of Diamond Harbour, where you could easily while away a day having a leisurely pub lunch, picnicking in the waterfront park, shopping for antiques or walking the stunning cliff-top track.

Christchurch also makes a good base for exploring the French settlement of Akaroa, the whale-watching town of Kaikoura, the hot-spring retreat of Hamner Spring and for skiing at Mt Hutt.

Christchurch is the aerial gateway to Antarctica, and indeed, when those southerlies whip up, that great icy mass doesn't feel too far away.