Buskers serenade shoppers with Irish music in Grafton Street.

Photo: Dublin Tourism

The mighty Celtic Tiger has transformed Dublin from a dirty old town into a stylish, sophisticated, cosmopolitan metropolis.

Home to more than a quarter of the Republic's four million people, it is young and hip and a joy to explore.

Sprawled north and south of the River Liffey, public transport hasn't kept up with the city's changing pace, and traffic congestion makes either walking or catching the Luas light rail the sanest way to get around.

Dublin's compact centre includes the narrow cobblestone streets of Temple Bar, where traditional Irish music floats from cozy pubs, luring in passersby for a pint or four.

The pedestrianized shopping strip of Grafton Street bustles with flower stands and buskers, while on sunny days a bronze bust of James Joyce watches over sprawled-out lovers in nearby St Stephen's Green.

Must-see attractions in Dublin include the hallowed Trinity College which houses the ancient manuscripts the Book of Kells. Also worth checking out is the haunting Kilmainham Gaol which has become a symbol of British brutality and Ireland's struggle for independence. Meanwhile, the Guinness Storehouse, next door to the brewery, offers a popular tour which culminates in the lofty Gravity Bar with a complimentary pint of the world's best-known stout and an unbeatable view of the city.

For easy day trips from central Dublin, explore the seaside village of Howth, stroll around Malahide Castle or celebrity-spot in the historic waterfront suburb of Dalkey, home to a bunch of Ireland's rich and famous - you might spot Bono here dashing out for milk.