Just north of Accra in the hills in the suburb of Legon, lies the cool campus of University of Ghana.

A visit is worthwhile if just to marvel at the building design, with the university clocktower reminiscent of a Nepalese pagoda. A section of the Deapartment of Musicology is devoted to Ghanaian music. If you are lucky, you could stumble upon a performance of Ghanaian dance and drumming.

Near the university lies the classic African village of Kissemah. Here, people tend chickens, sort lumps of coal and repair their clapped-out motor cars. The village is the domain mainly of éwé people from the neighbouring Republic of Togo. The éwé immigrants have made a name for themselves in their adopted country as highly talented musicians – and dance performances and rehearsals are often on the day’s agenda. Just ask around.